After a (much too) long 15-hour flight and an eight-hour layover, I was finally on the last leg of my journey to Erbil from Washington, D.C. Among the handful of Americans onboard, I sat next to a young Kurdish man raised in the UK. His curiosity about my visit revealed how rare it is for people to travel to Kurdistan purely for tourism. Given Iraq’s turbulent history with war and, more recently, the brutality of ISIS, this was understandable. Iraqi Kurdistan remains largely unknown to most Americans and absent from many mainstream discussions. But I was excited to begin my trip, knowing that Iraqi Kurdistan would offer much more than just a narrative of violence or conflict.

Upon landing, entering the country was surprisingly seamless, with a quick passport stamp, a warm smile, and a “Welcome” from the customs officer. My journey would take me through Erbil, Duhok, Rawanduz, Choman, and Akre, where I experienced the food, people, history, politics, and peacebuilding community that shape Kurdistan today.

A History of the Kurds
The Kurds remain the Middle East’s largest “stateless nation,” numbering between 40 and 50 million across Iraq (Northern Iraq considered Iraqi Kurdistan), Iran, Syria, and Turkey (Washington Institute, 2023). They have strived for an independent Kurdistan since the Treaty of Sèvres in 1920, which proposed Kurdish autonomy following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire. However, the subsequent Treaty of Lausanne in 1923 disregarded Kurdish statehood, leaving them divided across Iran, Iraq, Syria, and Turkey, where they continue to live today. While the Kurdish nationalist movements persist, Kurdish autonomy remains constrained by regional politics and international interests. Kurds have faced not only statelessness but marginalization and sometimes violence, including acts such as the Anfal campaign, also known as the Kurdish genocide, which was conducted by the Iraqi Ba’ath regime in 1988, resulting in the deaths of an estimated 50,000 to 100,000 Kurds, according to Human Rights Watch. Read more here.

Women, Peace, and Security (WPS) in Kurdistan
My reflections would be incomplete without asking: Where are the women? Carol Cohn’s perspective and gender lens always remind me to ask this question. Before my trip, I had not realized that Iraq was the first country in the MENA region to adopt a National Action Plan (NAP) for implementing United Nations Security Council Resolution 1325 on Women, Peace, and Security in 2014, with the involvement of the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG). Implementation has been hindered by ongoing conflict, political fragmentation, and economic strain. However, the second NAP (2020–2024) had some improvements, though it faced criticism for its limited engagement with civil society and lack of enforcement mechanisms. However, this is a common issue with naps and a post-conflict environment. Despite this, I learned more about the complexities of this on my trip, who is seeking to fill the gap and support peace, including women’s inclusion.

The legacies of sexual and gender-based violence (SGBV), particularly against Yazidi, Kurdish, and Iraqi women under ISIS, remain central to Iraq’s recent history. Iraqi Kurdistan is one of the few places in the region with laws criminalizing domestic violence. SEED Kurdistan, an organization I encountered during my trip, supports these legal protections by partnering with NGOs and local government. Another milestone I learned about, the Yazidi (Female) Survivor’s Law, which was passed in March 2021, offers reparations to survivors of conflict-related sexual violence, including Yazidi women, children kidnapped by ISIS, and survivors from other targeted minority communities like the Shabak, Christians, and Turkmen. It was a step in the right direction to provide survivors with a support framework.

According to the International Organization for Migration (IOM), 26% of Iraqi women report experiencing violence. Women also face economic forms of violence—legal discrimination around marriage, child custody, and property rights. ISIS’s abductions and enslavement of Yazidi women, including the now-famous Nadia Murad, highlight the gendered dynamics of war. Even years after this now, it is evident that entire communities continue to grapple with trauma, displacement, societal stigma, and the devastation of still-missing women I learned about in a conversation with one woman.

Peace Initiatives
In Duhok, I met with the director of a local peacebuilding organization. He shared insights into women-led initiatives with UNSCR 1325 frameworks, operating in villages across Kurdistan and expanding into Iraq proper. These spaces offer opportunities for women to join peacebuilding groups, engage with others at the local level, and discuss problem-solving methods for the challenges they see in their communities. They are also working to integrate more women into interfaith peace dialogue groups, ensuring these spaces are not male-only or male-dominated.

Women and Security 
Over lunch with a Kurdish family in Duhok, I met a man who had fought against ISIS. As he described the experience, his words carried pride. His story was a stark reminder that while the geopolitical debates around Kurdistan’s future continue, the human toll of war is an ever-present reality. As he mentioned, it was not only men— I learned more about how Kurdish women have long been active in armed resistance and governance. Feminist activists warn that gender equality is often sidelined in favor of national unity. One analysis notes that “Kurdish activists must navigate the challenges imposed by nationalism, patriarchy, and cultural-religious norms[1]” as often seen in nationalist struggle and the gendered dynamics at play in similar contexts.

As a student with a background in Global and Middle Eastern Studies and now a Masters student of conflict analysis and resolution, I have spent time studying Iraq’s wars—from Saddam Hussein’s atrocities to the U.S. invasion and the terror of ISIS. Standing in a field where Kurdish forces held the line from ISIS’s advance in 2014 was surreal; it transported me back to that summer, watching relentless news coverage, never imagining I would one day set foot there. Throughout my trip, I was continually struck by Kurdistan’s rich cultural tapestry, shaped by Arab and Persian influences. One of the most profound moments was standing near the Iranian border, reflecting on the Kurdish saying: No friends but the mountains. It encapsulates resilience and isolation as Kurdish aspirations for autonomy face regional opposition. It also offered me some political imagination, looking at that border and what the future will hold regionally for future generations.

Further Reading and Resources 
For those interested in Kurdish history and struggles, Daughters of Kobani and My Father’s Paradise provide insightful narratives, while the documentary Inside Kobane examines the Kurdish fight against ISIS. The Kurdish Peace Institute also offers policy analysis and recommendations not only for Iraqi Kurdistan but also for the Kurdish population spanning Iraq, Syria, Turkey, and Iran. Additionally, A Modern History of the Kurds by David McDowall provides both historical and political dynamics of the Kurds.

Author: Adysen Moylan
MS Candidate Conflict Analysis and Resolution
WPS Intern, Institute of World Affairs

[1]https://eismena.com/en/article/redefining-boundaries-womens-activism-in-the-light-of-nationalism-in-iraqi-kurdistan-2024-10-30